Frequently Asked Questions
Choosing the Right Trailer
What are the best trailers for hauling heavy equipment?
The best trailer will depend on what kind of equipment you need to transport. For heavy-duty construction equipment, a tilt trailer will make loading and unloading on job sites fast and easy. On the other hand, if you need to protect your equipment from theft or bad weather, an enclosed trailer might be better suited to your needs. Contact us for personalized recommendations — we’re always happy to help.
What trailers are best for carrying snowmobiles?
We have a variety of snowmobile trailers designed for different budgets and needs. Enclosed trailers tend to be more expensive, but will protect your snowmobiles from harsh weather. Utility trailers are another reliable option, and tend to be more affordable. In either case, a ramp for loading and unloading your snowmobiles is ideal.
What kind of trailer is best for carrying an ATV?
If you need fast access to your ATV, a tilt trailer or a utility trailer with a ramp will be quick to unload. Enclosed trailers can be a little slower to load and unload, but will protect your ATV from the elements while you’re on the road, and can be locked to prevent theft.
What trailer do I need for transporting cars?
We offer a wide selection of car hauler trailers, perfect for safely transporting vehicles and equipment. Key features include slide-in ramps, steel winch mounting plates, drive-over fenders, and tie-down points.
Should I choose a gooseneck or a bumper pull trailer?
It depends on your load and towing distance. Bumper pull trailers connect to a standard hitch, fit most tow vehicles, and are easier to manoeuvre and park, making them a good fit for shorter trips and lighter, consistent loads — though they have less efficient weight distribution and aren’t as well suited to highway driving. Gooseneck trailers connect over the tow vehicle’s rear axle, which distributes weight more evenly, improves stability and fuel efficiency, and offers a tighter turning radius. They do require a truck with an in-bed hitch and are generally the better choice for heavier loads, longer highway trips, and awkwardly shaped cargo.
What's a deckover trailer, and how is it different from a standard trailer?
A deckover trailer has a flat deck that sits above the wheels and fenders, rather than a deck positioned between the wheel wells. This creates a wider, obstruction-free loading surface that’s ideal for hauling wide equipment like skid steers or pallets side by side. The trade-off is a higher overall deck height compared to a standard (between-the-fenders) trailer, which can make loading with ramps a bit steeper.
What should I look for in an enclosed trailer?
Consider the size of trailer you need — common widths run 5′ to 8.5′ and lengths 8′ to 32’+. A taller trailer creates more drag, making it less fuel-efficient, so you should choose the lowest enclosed trailer that meets your needs; a height closer to your tow vehicle’s height reduces wind drag. Other important factors include:
- Skin thickness — thicker exterior panels hold up better to impacts and daily use than thin, light-duty skins.
- Axle configuration — tandem axles cost more than a single axle but support heavier loads and add stability.
- Roof style — rounded roofs shed snow and rain better and add interior headroom; flat roofs are simpler but offer less clearance.
- Door type — ramp doors suit wheeled cargo but need extra clearance behind the trailer; barn doors save space.
- Colour — dark trailers have a sleeker look but can heat up in the sun; a light-coloured trailer will stay cooler in summer.
One measuring note: on most enclosed trailers, the V-nose front section is not included in the trailer’s overall or listed length — that measurement typically covers only the straight-sided box portion. Read our guide on enclosed trailers for more information.
What should I look for in a dump trailer?
Start with what you’ll be hauling and how often. Match the trailer’s weight rating (GVWR) — and your tow vehicle’s towing capacity — to your typical load, not just the trailer’s physical dimensions. From there, consider:
- Frame construction — I-beam frames are generally stronger than tube or channel frames.
- Floor gauge — heavier-duty trailers often use thicker steel flooring.
- Lift mechanism — hydraulic cylinders are the most common and offer strong, precise control, while scissor lifts add stability for heavy or uneven loads.
Aluminum dump trailers resist corrosion better and are lighter, while steel and galvanized steel options typically cost less upfront. Read our guide on dump trailers for more information.
Should I prioritize trailer durability or weight capacity?
It depends on your specific needs. A more durable trailer will last longer and stand up to more wear and tear over time. However, your trailer needs 10%–15% extra weight capacity for safe hauling. Ultimately, the best trailers have both qualities.
How do I choose a durable trailer?
Look for heavy-duty welded frames, reinforced axles, and weather-resistant finishes.
What weight capacity do I need?
Always choose a trailer with a weight capacity at least 10%–15% higher than the heaviest load you expect to be hauling. This prevents strain on the trailer and ensures safe hauling.
What's the difference between a tandem axle trailer and a single axle trailer?
A tandem axle trailer has two axles, while a single axle trailer has only one. More axles help to distribute weight evenly, and are excellent for hauling heavy loads.
Trailer Materials & Finishes
Which material is best for a trailer: steel, aluminum, or galvanized steel?
Each has trade-offs:
- Steel — strong and generally more affordable to repair, but prone to rust over time without a protective finish.
- Aluminum — lighter weight (easier to tow) and naturally corrosion-resistant, though typically a higher upfront cost.
- Galvanized steel — coated with a zinc layer that makes it highly rust-resistant and low-maintenance, which is especially valuable in wet, snowy, or salted-road climates. It usually costs more upfront than painted steel but can last significantly longer with less maintenance.
The right choice depends on your budget, climate, and how the trailer will be used.
What trailers resist rust and corrosion?
Galvanized trailers and aluminum trailers are both excellent at resisting corrosion. They often last longer than powder-coated steel trailers on salted roads or in wet conditions.
When should I choose an aluminum trailer?
Aluminum trailers are lightweight and rust resistant. They often offer better fuel efficiency than steel, and hold up better in wet conditions. However, aluminum is not as strong or rigid as steel. A galvanized steel trailer may be a better choice if you often drive on rugged terrain, since they are also highly rust resistant.
What's the difference between a galvanized trailer and a powder-coated trailer?
Both galvanized and powder-coated trailers are made from steel. Powder-coated trailers are painted, making them less resistant to moisture and rust. Galvanized trailers are treated with zinc, which makes them extremely durable and rust-resistant. Galvanized trailers typically cost more upfront, but can be cheaper in the long term because of their lower repair and maintenance costs.
Can I repaint a powder-coated trailer?
Yes, but ensure the surface is clean and prepared for new paint to adhere effectively.
How can I maintain a galvanized trailer on rough roads?
Wash your trailer regularly to remove salt, dirt, and debris. The zinc coating on a galvanized trailer keeps maintenance low, even with heavy use on rough roads.
Do galvanized trailers require rust-proofing?
No, galvanized trailers don’t need additional rust-proofing. Their zinc coating protects them from corrosion.
How do rough roads impact a trailer's finish?
Rough roads can chip and damage a trailer’s finish, leading to potential rust exposure. Powder-coated trailers are particularly vulnerable to this. Galvanized trailers are more resistant to this wear and tear.
Can a powder-coated trailer handle harsh Canadian roads?
Powder-coated trailers may show signs of wear more quickly on rough roads, as their paint is prone to chipping, leading to rust. However, they can still be durable and effective trailers.
What are the benefits of a galvanized trailer in Canada?
Canadian roads can be tough on trailers. In the winter, melting snow and road salt can easily corrode metal that isn’t protected. Rough roads in rural areas can also cause damage to trailers. Galvanized trailers are highly durable and rust-resistant, making them well suited for these conditions.
What is the lifespan of a galvanized trailer?
Galvanized trailers can last over 15 years with proper care, thanks to their rust-resistant coating.
Is it worth paying extra for a galvanized trailer?
Yes, especially in humid or coastal areas where rust can shorten the lifespan of unprotected trailers. A galvanized trailer will hold up better under harsh conditions. This also holds true for remote areas with rough roads, where the durability and rust resistance of a galvanized trailer are well worth the investment.
Trailer Specs & Terminology
What's the difference between GVWR, GAWR, and GCWR?
These are three related but distinct weight ratings:
- GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) — the maximum total weight of the fully loaded trailer, including cargo.
- GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) — the maximum weight a single axle is rated to carry. On a multi-axle trailer, load should be balanced so no single axle exceeds its GAWR.
- GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) — the maximum allowable combined weight of your tow vehicle and the loaded trailer together.
Staying within all three ratings is essential for safe, legal towing.
What is tongue weight, and why does it matter?
Tongue weight (also called hitch weight) is the downward force the loaded trailer’s coupler places on your tow vehicle’s hitch. As a general rule of thumb, tongue weight should be about 10–15% of the trailer’s total loaded weight, with up to 20–25% still considered acceptable on some setups. Too little tongue weight can cause the trailer to sway at speed; too much can overload the rear of the tow vehicle and affect steering and braking.
What do terms like curb weight, cargo weight, and payload capacity actually mean?
These terms come up often when sizing a trailer and tow vehicle:
- Curb weight — the weight of the empty trailer or tow vehicle as it sits with no cargo, passengers, or extra fluids added.
- Cargo weight — the combined weight of everything you load into or onto the trailer or vehicle, not including the vehicle/trailer itself.
- Payload capacity — the maximum additional weight (cargo plus passengers) a vehicle or trailer can safely carry beyond its curb weight.
Knowing these numbers helps you avoid overloading your setup.
How many wheel studs (bolt pattern) does my trailer axle have?
Bolt pattern is generally tied to axle capacity, so it’s a useful quick reference when ordering wheels or checking lug torque:
- 3,500 lb axles — typically 5-bolt pattern
- 5,200 lb axles — typically 6-bolt pattern
- 7,000 lb axles and larger — typically 8-bolt pattern
These are common industry patterns, but it’s always worth double-checking your specific axle’s spec sheet or the number stamped on the axle tube, since manufacturers vary.
Towing Capacity & Safety
How do I know how much weight my trailer can actually haul?
Your trailer’s usable load capacity is its GVWR minus its unloaded (curb) weight. For example, a trailer with a 10,000 lb GVWR that weighs 2,500 lbs empty can safely carry up to 7,500 lbs of cargo. You’ll also want to confirm your tow vehicle’s towing capacity and Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) to make sure it can safely handle the loaded trailer on top of its own weight.
How do I measure for a replacement truck bed or flat deck?
Truck decks are typically sized by three measurements: the length of the deck, the width of the deck, and the cab-to-axle (CTA) measurement, which is the distance from behind the cab to the centre of the rear axle. Cab width and configuration (single rear wheel vs. dual/”dually”) also affect which deck will fit properly, so it’s best to confirm exact specifications for your specific truck make, model, and year before ordering.
How wide is my truck bed, and does that affect which deck fits?
Bed width and configuration vary by truck class, so it’s one of the first things to confirm before ordering a replacement deck:
- Half-ton trucks (e.g., 1500-series) — commonly around 84″ wide, single rear wheel (SRW).
- 3/4-ton and larger trucks (e.g., 2500-series, single rear wheel) — also often around 84″ wide.
- 1-ton dual-rear-wheel (“dually”) trucks (e.g., 3500-series) — typically 94″ to 97″ wide.
- Heavier-duty dually trucks (4500-series and up) — usually around 97″ wide, with cab-to-axle (CTA) measurements commonly around 56″, 60″, or 84″ depending on configuration.
Because widths and CTA measurements can vary by model year and trim, it’s best to confirm your specific truck’s dimensions before ordering a deck, and note that most decks only ship with adapter harnesses to extend your existing wiring rather than a full replacement harness.
What size hitch and coupler do I need?
The hitch class and ball size need to match your trailer’s gross trailer weight (GTW) and tongue weight, not just the receiver size on your vehicle. Common ball sizes are 1-7/8″, 2″, and 2-5/16″, each rated for different weight ranges. Always check both the coupler’s rated capacity and the hitch/ball rating to make sure they meet or exceed your loaded trailer’s weight.
Does my trailer need brakes?
In most provinces, trailers over a certain GVWR threshold are required to have brakes on at least one axle, with electric or hydraulic surge brakes being the most common types. Requirements vary by province and trailer weight, so it’s worth confirming the specific rules that apply where you live and register your trailer.
What should I check before every tow?
A quick pre-tow inspection can prevent most on-road issues:
- Tire condition and pressure (on both the trailer and tow vehicle)
- All lights — brake lights, turn signals, and running lights
- Hitch and coupler are fully latched and locked
- Safety chains are crossed and properly attached
- Brakes are functioning (if equipped)
- Load is balanced and properly secured with adequate tie-downs
Registration, Licensing & Insurance
How do I register a trailer?
Trailer registration requirements vary by province, but generally you’ll need your bill of sale and the trailer’s VIN. Many owners handle registration and insurance together through their local insurance broker or provincial licensing office. It’s a good idea to register a trailer of any size, as most provinces require it before the trailer can legally be towed on public roads.
Do I need a special driver's licence to tow a trailer?
It depends on your province and the trailer’s weight. Across Canada, a standard Class 5 (or equivalent passenger) licence covers most light-duty trailers, but many provinces require an upgraded, non-commercial licence class once the trailer’s GVWR — or the combined weight of the tow vehicle and trailer — passes a certain threshold, often in the range of 4,600 kg (about 10,000 lbs). The exact threshold, licence class, and rules for air brakes (if equipped) differ from province to province — see the provincial licensing comparison below for a general starting point, and always confirm the current requirement with your provincial licensing authority before towing a heavier trailer.
Purchasing, Financing & Delivery
Do you offer any leasing or financing options for your trailers?
Yes, we offer a variety of leasing and financing options. We work with the best lenders in the business to ensure that your trailer is on-budget and available when you need it most. The typical process involves submitting an application, having it reviewed for approval, and then being contacted directly by the lender to finalize terms. Financing terms, rates, and down payment requirements vary by lender and by your credit profile, so it’s worth comparing a couple of options before committing.
Do you deliver trailers?
Yes, we deliver. You can also buy directly from us online through our Buy a Trailer Online tool.
What payment types do you accept?
We accept all major credit cards, cash, and cheques, in addition to our financing and leasing options.
How can I save money when buying a trailer?
A few practical strategies can add up to real savings:
- Buy the size and features you actually need rather than paying for capacity or extras you won’t use.
- Consider a well-maintained used trailer, inspecting the frame, axles, tires, brakes, and lights carefully first.
- Compare finishes — galvanized costs more upfront but often saves on maintenance and rust repair over time.
- Buy from a reputable dealer that offers warranty support and service after the sale.
- Ask about financing rates and any discount available for paying cash.
- Keep up with routine maintenance, since a well-maintained trailer holds its resale value better.
Stock & Inventory
What trailers do you have available?
You can browse the trailers we have available in our online trailer inventory. While we make every effort to ensure the data on our website is current and accurate, there are sometimes errors. We recommend calling our dealerships for the most up-to-date information about what we have in stock.
Do you sell used trailers?
Yes, we sell new and used trailers. You can browse our current selection of used trailers online, or check with your local dealer — find your nearest location.
Do you sell trailer parts?
Yes! We sell trailer parts both online and in-person. For online orders, visit our online trailer parts store.
Warranty & Service
Do you offer warranties on your trailers?
Warranty coverage depends on the manufacturer of the trailer you purchase. As a general rule, most trailers come with a structural warranty on the frame for a longer period (often several years), along with a shorter limited warranty covering components and workmanship. Normal wear-and-tear items — such as tires, bearings, or brake pads that wear down through regular use — are typically not covered under warranty, regardless of whether the trailer was purchased outright, financed, or leased. Ask your dealer about the specific warranty terms for the trailer you’re interested in.
How do I file a warranty claim?
Most manufacturers ask that you register your trailer shortly after purchase, which helps confirm ownership and warranty start date. If an issue comes up, contact your dealer or the manufacturer’s service centre with your trailer’s VIN and a description of the problem; you’ll typically be asked to complete a warranty claim or repair request form, and a representative will follow up to arrange next steps.
Can you install truck beds, trailer toolboxes, and other parts?
Yes, our Leduc, Leamington, and Maxville locations all have installation bays.
Do you offer trailer repair services?
Yes, we offer trailer maintenance and repair services at our Leduc, Leamington, and Maxville locations.
Can I get replacement keys for my enclosed trailer?
Most enclosed trailer door locks have a key code stamped on the lock cylinder itself. If you still have access to the lock, a replacement key can usually be cut to match that code. If the code isn’t legible or the lock is damaged, the entire lock assembly typically needs to be replaced.
Where can I get parts and service for my trailer?
An authorized dealer or trailer service centre is generally your best source for both routine service and repairs. Most stock common wear items — axle components, bearings, lights, jacks, tires, and hitch hardware — and can special-order manufacturer-specific parts as needed. For older or out-of-warranty trailers, many service centres will also work on other brands, not just the ones they sell.
Maintenance & Seasonal Care
What kind of trailer maintenance should I do on a regular basis?
It’s important to inspect your trailer carefully at least once a year, ideally before the season starts, and service any parts that aren’t in good working order. Read our guide and find out how to make sure your trailer is road-ready.
How do I winterize my trailer for storage?
A thorough winterizing routine typically includes:
- Washing off mud, dirt, and road salt, and checking for rust
- Greasing bearings, axles, hinges, and the hitch mechanism
- Checking tire pressure and condition, and using covers if stored outdoors
- Inspecting wiring and lights, and disconnecting the battery for indoor storage — charging it periodically will prevent it from losing its charge over time
- Applying a protective wax or coating to the frame and using a trailer cover
- Checking brake components and fluid levels
- Using ventilation or moisture absorbers in enclosed trailers to prevent mould
- Storing on a solid, level surface and using wheel locks or jack stands where appropriate
Read our maintenance guide for more detail on preventing rust, corrosion, and moisture damage.
How do I clean my trailer?
Use a hose or pressure washer with soapy water to clean off dirt, mud, and road salt. Make sure to clean the trailer’s frame and underside, and inspect it for rust after cleaning.
How do I treat rust on my trailer?
Some rust spots can be removed with a wire brush and then treated with a rust inhibitor. However, if your trailer has issues with rust, it may need more in-depth maintenance and repairs. If you’re in Alberta or Ontario, our Leduc, Leamington, and Maxville locations offer trailer repair services.
How often should I service my trailer's wheel bearings?
There’s no single fixed interval since it depends on load, mileage, and towing conditions, but bearings should be greased regularly and re-packed after towing through wet, muddy, or salted conditions. Watch for warning signs between services: grinding or squeaking noises, hubs that feel unusually hot after a trip, excessive wheel play, or rough rotation when spinning the wheel by hand. Catching these early helps avoid a bearing failure on the road.
How do I get my trailer ready for spring after winter storage?
Before the first tow of the season, it’s worth going through a full inspection:
- Check tire tread, sidewalls, and pressure
- Remove, clean, and repack wheel bearings with fresh grease
- Test all lights and wiring connections
- Inspect brake components and hydraulic lines
- Lubricate the trailer jack and check for smooth operation
- Check the hitch coupler, safety chains, and all pins and fasteners
- Inspect the frame and deck for rust, cracked welds, or loose bolts
- Wash off winter grime and reapply protective coatings as needed
Is there a break-in period for a new trailer?
Yes. As with a vehicle, it’s a good idea to keep an eye on a new trailer during its first several trips — recheck lug nut torque after the first short tow, watch hub temperatures, and inspect the hitch, lights, and tires more closely than usual. Most issues that show up early are minor and easy to catch before they become bigger problems.
About PJ Trailers Canada
Are you Canadian-owned?
Yes, PJ Trailers Canada, Inc. is entirely Canadian-owned. We are the Canadian distributor for PJ Trailers (USA), which is also why we carry a wide selection of other trailer brands as well.
Which of your trailers are made in Canada?
True North Trailers, N&N, K-Trail, Maxi-Roule, and LWL are all made in Canada. You can browse our full selection of Canadian-made trailers online.
What trailer brands do you carry?
As the Canadian distributor for PJ Trailers, along with our own True North brand, we also carry a wide selection of other quality trailer brands, including: True North Trailers, PJ Trailers, Ironbull, Norstar, Kaufman, Lightning Trailers, RC Trailers, K-Trail, Maxi Roule, Dura-Max, LWL, MTI, and N&N.
Our Locations
Do you sell trailers in Alberta?
Yes! Our Leduc trailer dealership is located just outside of Edmonton, near the Edmonton Airport.
Do you sell trailers in Manitoba?
Yes! Our flagship location is located in Morden, Manitoba. We also have a Winnipeg trailer dealership, located just off the city perimeter to the southwest.
Do you sell trailers in Ontario?
Yes, we have two Ontario locations. Our Maxville trailer dealership is located just outside of Ottawa, and is convenient to the Kemptville, Dunvegan, St. Isidore, and Hawkesbury areas. Our Leamington dealership is located on the southernmost tip of the Ontario Peninsula, close to Detroit, Michigan.
Do you sell trailers in Saskatchewan?
No, we do not have any dealerships in Saskatchewan at this time. However, our online trailer parts store ships Canada-wide.
Does PJ Trailers Canada have a dealer network, and which provinces does it cover?
Yes, we have a dealer network. Beyond our flagship locations in Alberta, Manitoba, and Ontario, PJ Trailers Canada supplies trailers through a wider network of roughly 30 independent dealers and distributors, spanning five provinces: Alberta, British Columbia, Manitoba, Ontario, and Saskatchewan.
Provincial Licensing Differences
Licence classes and towing weight thresholds are set by each province and territory, not federally, so the rules for when you need an upgraded licence can vary depending on where you live. The table below is a general starting point, not a legal reference — always confirm the current requirement with your provincial or territorial licensing authority before towing a heavier trailer.
| Province/Territory | Standard Licence | General Threshold Before an Upgrade May Be Needed | Confirm With |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alberta | Class 5 | ~4,600 kg (10,000 lb) trailer GVWR is a commonly cited point above which a Class 1, 2, or 4 licence may be required | Alberta's driver licensing authority |
| British Columbia | Class 5 | ~4,600 kg (10,000 lb) trailer GVW is a commonly cited point above which Class 1, 3, or 4 may apply | ICBC |
| Manitoba | Class 5 | A Class 3 licence is generally required to tow a trailer with a GVWR of 10,000 lb (4,536 kg) or more | Manitoba Public Insurance (MPI) |
| Saskatchewan | Class 5 | ~4,600 kg (10,000 lb) trailer GVWR is a commonly cited point above which Class 1 or 3 may apply | SGI (Saskatchewan Government Insurance) |
| Ontario | Class G | Uses a different framework based on combined vehicle/trailer weight and vehicle type, with separate provisions for recreational trailers — not a single simple GVWR figure | Ontario's Ministry of Transportation |
| Quebec | Class 5 | Licence structure and thresholds differ from Western Canada; a Class 3 or other upgrade may apply to heavier trailers | SAAQ (Société de l'assurance automobile du Québec) |
| New Brunswick | Class 5 | Varies — confirm current thresholds | Service New Brunswick |
| Nova Scotia | Class 5 | Varies — confirm current thresholds | Access Nova Scotia / Registry of Motor Vehicles |
| Prince Edward Island | Class 5 | Varies — confirm current thresholds | PEI Highway Safety Division |
| Newfoundland and Labrador | Class 5 | Varies — confirm current thresholds | Motor Registration Division (Service NL) |
| Yukon | Class 5 | Varies — confirm current thresholds | Yukon Motor Vehicles Branch |
| Northwest Territories | Class 5 | Varies — confirm current thresholds | NWT Road Licensing and Safety |
| Nunavut | Class 5 | Varies — confirm current thresholds | Nunavut Dept. of Economic Development & Transportation |
Table last compiled: August 31, 2026. Licence classes, weight thresholds, and requirements (including air brake endorsements and rules for recreational vs. commercial use) can change and are set independently by each province and territory. This table is provided as a general orientation only — verify current, exact requirements with the applicable licensing authority listed above before towing, and treat it as due for a re-check periodically even after publishing.